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RE: Re: 5K TB mods...



Ryan Schuermann wrote:
>actually i dont know what the hell he was talking about,if you just 
>swap the top linkage from your old t-body onto the top of the audi 
>modelit will all work just fine.
>
>Ryan


>> Somebody posted something about the 5K t-body not fully opening with 
the
>> stock position of the little ball thingy. You mentioned an install 
that
>> required no welding and puting another ball a little closer to the 
center of
>> the pivot. Who posted that? Could you re-send that to me privately, Im 
gonna
>> try it out....
>> 
>> TIA
>> Chad 
>> 84 8V


OK. I'll clarify what I originally wrote. But to respond to Ryan first: I 
didn't see that the two were compatible. Did you swap all of the likage, 
and then modify your TB so that the stops worked right, or did you just 
pull the very top linkage arm off (the one that the throttle cable 
attaches to)? If the latter, did you then cut off the excess tabs? Did I 
miss an easy way out here? 

Back to Chad: 
THE PROBLEM:   What I was talking about stems from the fact that the 
linkage arm on the VW TB is about 5mm shorter that the linkage arm of 
the AUDI. (When I say liknage arm, this is the -arm- that pivots when 
you step on the accelerator. It is connected to the primary throttle 
valve shaft on one end and the throttle cable on the other. At this 
junction there is (what I like to call) a ball stud) So you need less 
movement with the VW throttle cable to make it pivot the same amount. 
This means that when you swap in   the Audi TB, you don't get enough 
movement with the cable to open the throttle all the way.  

THE FIX: When I first heard of this swap, it was in a file that had a 
post from Peter Tong in it. He described that to shorten the linkage 
arm, (and this is from memory that I've tried to forget) take off the 
- -secondary- linkage arm from the VW TB and cut off the extraneous tabs. 
(This is NOT the linkage arm with the ball stud, but the one below it) 
Then round out the rectangular pivot hole. Then he said to weld on the 
end piece (w/ the ball stud) from the AUDI TB, and weld it on in the 
right place. Then he said to put this on your audi TB, but do not 
tighten the bolt. rotate the linkage arm to pull the throttle cable 
taught and then tighten the bolt. 
    This unnerved me a bit because I thought it possible for the whole 
thing to slip, plus my welding is less than pretty and even less 
structurally sound. So I tried to think of a different way. What I did 
was to go to the junkyard again and pull off just the linkage arm from 
an audi TB (for a spare, in case I screwed it up). Then I took this home 
and with my angle grinder, I carefully ground off just the bottom of the 
ball stud, and with a vise and some work, removed the old ball stud. Now 
the tricky part, removing the VW ball stud still intact. I ended up 
using the angle grinder to grind the outer part of the linkaga arm away. 
I then used the vise to -squeeze- the bottom end of the ball stud 
together to make it thinner(this is what keeps it in the hole in the 
first place). This took some work.  Once out, I measured the right 
distance and drilled a new hole in the audi TB.  Then I pressed in the 
VW ball stud into the audi linkage arm. I used a vise, and put two 
washers on the back side of the linkage arm to allow for the ball stud 
to go all of the way through. Once in, I used the vise again to 
- -squeeze- out the bottom end of the ball stud. It's now in all of the 
way and solid. From here it is an easy swap of the top linkage arms on 
the audi TB. 

- -note: the metal of the linkage arm is very hard, I had little success in 
cutting it with anything other than the angle grinder, but this cut it 
like butter.

Hope that this clarifies it, but sorry for the long post. 

lemme know if you have any probs. 

Jonas
85 Scirocco

Ryan Schuermann wrote:
>actually i dont know what the hell he was talking about,if you just 
>swap the top linkage from your old t-body onto the top of the audi 
>modelit will all work just fine.
>
>Ryan


>> Somebody posted something about the 5K t-body not fully opening with 
the
>> stock position of the little ball thingy. You mentioned an install 
that
>> required no welding and puting another ball a little closer to the 
center of
>> the pivot. Who posted that? Could you re-send that to me privately, Im 
gonna
>> try it out....
>> 
>> TIA
>> Chad 
>> 84 8V
>> 


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